The end is drawing ever nearer, the curtains about to be pulled over or at least over here the paper screen will soon slide over for the last time.
My successor has inundated me with questions about life, snakes, cheese and more. His vitality reminds me of my excitement as I prepared to become part of the JET set. He just sent me a mail asking me what my daily routine is like here in the Nohe. I didn't know how to answer that question. If I'm totally honest he'll probably resign from his new post before boarding the flight to Tokyo, then again if I'm not he may wonder why I held things back from him about life in the Nohe. My final draft was a little from column A and a little from column B. I also realised that I've never told any of you back home what I actually do at work, or what my daily routine is. So, here you have it. A day in the life of RunningMan Sensei.
4a.m. and the sun raids my bedroom like NARCs in a crack-house. Immediately I wake and curse the lack of daylight savings time while trying to wipe the layers of sweat from my sexy body. Three hours of uneasiness follow with the humidity growing in intensity alongside the sun reaching an optimum angle at which to attack me from.
7 bells is greeted by a Japanese love-song-cum-alarm-call and the local tannoy announcing the days weather and traffic report, “it will be incredibly hot, sticky, rain for 2hours (torrentially) and there will be 4 cars on the road, PLEASE BE CAREFUL”. Everything in Japan conspires against a good nights sleep. I take note of her warning and am partially alive at 0730, when she repeats it. I now find that there's nothing like a bowl of rice in the morning to get you on your way. Throw in an apple pie and a yoghurt and nothing can get in the way of full contact internationalisation. A gentle dab of wax in my hair, more for the ladies than for me, and a quick mental reminder that
I am the man and it's off to ‘work’ having had 18mins 42secs of sleep.
22ft from the house and I'm caked in a new film of sweat. The humidity is like a New Delhi street urchin, it just won’t leave you alone. I Indiana Jones my way through the thousands of spider webs cast from branch to branch invariably getting caught in about 47 of them every morning. These days I have to watch my step for the morning rush hour of tennis ball sized albino snails drooling across the path. Occasionally, a crow the size of a small dog will swoop to a fence post and death stare me as I walk on by. At least two times per week at the end of the wood's there's a retiree taking a piss with a seemingly never ending cigarette wilting away in his mouth. He doesn’t say hello.
With the leafy cover behind me the sun starts to remind me that it’s not just my sleep it intends on ruining. My first encounters with routine work-goers are in three categories type 1 greets me with a friendly herrrro, type 2 overts their eyes any where possible, switches to the opposite side of the path and raises a shoulder in a defensive position in case I might want to beat the shit out of him and type 3 looks at you as if they are laying eyes on E.T. in a business suit ( I usually stare type 3 right in the eye to make them feel like they should convert to being type 2). The park looms fifty feet below on my right with swarms of 140-somethings out playing petanque. Petanque being the only sport/activity that these right-angled great-grannies are suited to playing other than sitting.
It’s at this point where the students and I cross paths. The usual exchange being “good morning Lunning Man Sensei” and I follow up with a good morning how are you type thing and usually the group, in unison, will rattle off ‘I am fine thank you’, giggle then run. The girls just giggle; in fact I think giggling is a form of communication amongst female kind over here. I walk past and then hear the kawaii’s (cute) accompanied by the giggling, it’s a little different from passing Dublin schoolgirls who’d probably flick a cigarette butt at you, call you a faggot, threaten to kick lumps out of you and steal your wallet. The traffic warden makes a point of stopping whatever he’s doing to come shake my hands. As there is no traffic to protect people against its okay that he stops whatever it is he is doing. The final assault on the school is a 20% incline for about 400m just to ensure that I’ve sweat out at least 4litres before I start ‘work’.
I arrive at ‘work’ sweating like a rapist, red-faced and wheezing. Fitness has taken a back seat of late. The brass band is in full swing having being practicing since sunrise, as have most of the other clubs. When arriving at a Japanese office the protocol is to make sure everyone is aware of your arrival by giving one loud ‘good morning’ and 62 follow-ups before sitting down. We have two morning meetings, both of which I have no clue what’s being said. Then I usually find that my two scheduled classes for the day, that’s a total of 80mins work, have either been cancelled, timetabled together or they have an important test that must be taken today in order for them to gain access to university because if they don’t get to university their lives are essentially ruined and over and done with and they can only stick to menial tasks, well at least that’s’ what they’re told at my school. It used to really irritate me but in the past couple of months I’ve just grown used to it and accepted it. So usually I now log on to gmail and start chatting with whomever, well mostly FlirtyShoulders, for a solid 8hours. I’ll scan over the news and read as much about North Korea as I can find (one day, one day I’ll make it there).
If I am fortunate enough to have a class to attend I’ll be a human tape recorder for the second years. “Repeat after me” or “Listen carefully to Question 1, 2, 3 etc” is possibly the worst thing you can imagine doing, ever. Even worse than living in an American suburb. My first-year classes are a little more exciting where I get to follow the course book to the letter and occasionally play a game of my choosing. My school is incredibly academic and students are subjected to an inordinate amount of testing. Before every class they have a short test for ten minutes which basically involves them learning obsolete English phrases such as ‘to err is human, to forgive divine’, they’ll come in real handy on the streets of NYC when they’re lost in the Bronx and asking some homie the way to the nearest ATM machine.
The day passes at varying a varying pace depending on the standard of conversation going on on gmail. Of course there are the usual brushes with students and teaching staff, mostly though they, i.e. everybody, is too busy to notice if I was barebacked and covered in swastikas. The one thing that has saved me from sitting at a desk with a chopstick up each nostril and then head-butting the desk has been kyudo. For those ignorant in the ways of the samurai, I am now training to be a killer. Most probably I’ll be deployed by the Emperors special secret ninja guard team on worldwide missions of national importance seducing women, occasionally men, and fighting anti-Nippon guerillas charged by powerful world leaders and CEO’s of global steel and oil companies. the kyudo team have been my best source of street-level Japanese. They are all having sex, lots of sex, and mostly with the kids from the local technical school which is full of j-gangstas, or at least the laughable attempts of gansgtas that they are. Word.
Training lasts for about 2 hours after which my hand is so limp that I can’t even contemplate showering Blankie with love for at least three hours. Weekdays are mixed between DVD’s, futsal, hanging out with RuralSlut and more DVD’s. Yes, they are
that exciting. There is not even a coffee shop in the fair ‘city’ I live in. People don’t walk the streets and all the shops are empty, I have no idea what they are doing. There is one ALT who has students round to its house on a regular basis but to me that’s just wrong wrong wrong. Would I, would anybody, in a teaching position, have students round after hours for video games and cooking? I’m not saying anything below-the-belt is happening but it does send out certain messages to students about foreigners, teacher relationships and the attitudes of some JETs, albeit well meaning, but misplaced egos and distorted views and opinions on Japaneses society and culture. Anyway, it’s just something I think about a lot. Japan is not a third world country, it does not need help from outsiders. Sure, it needs a Sumo size kick up the ass in regards to its attitudes and relationships with westerners but they can only themselves instigate the change, should they want to that is.
So the day ends after a meal of epic proportions. I have taken haute cuisine to new levels this year, all without an oven. Rice as a staple has been prominent throughout and kimchi has been welcomed into my life with open arms, and a semi. I’ve given up on Haruki Murakami after he failed to live up to the potential of A Wild Sheep Chase in his latter and earlier offerings, although I haven’t read Norwegian Wood yet. Japanese history is what sends me to sleep before it all starts again.
Working to live or living to work, well neither applies to me as I do neither. You can see that the walk to school is where the day peaks before troughing at ‘work’ and peaking again, momentarily, before troughing again. Up, down, up down. It’s all been about the weekends over here. That’s about 100days in all, mostly all good with tales of debauchery that have been shared and tales of another kind, such as last weekends cliffside adventure and perverted Japanese day-trippers with zoom lenses, that have been locked behind closed blogs. All in all days have gone by. One after another, days have gone by.